4 - | Maintenance operations

Checking the engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level. Check the level with the motorcycle perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).
The oil must be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is low, top it up. Remove the filler cap (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Replace the filler cap.
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Notes
Change the oil when the engine is warm (but with the engine stopped). In these conditions the oil is more fluid and will drain more rapidly and completely.
Remove the drain plug (3) on the oil sump and allow the used oil to drain off.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug. Refit the drain plug complete with seal (A) to the sump.
Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used cartridge, do not attempt to reutilise it.
Fit a new cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906: lubricate the seal with engine oil.
Notes
It is advisable to fill the filter cartridge (2) with engine oil before installing it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Screw the cartridge into place and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the outer plug (5).
Unscrew the filter (7) and withdraw it from the crankcase.
Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Replace the pick-up filter (7), fit the seal (6) to the plug (5) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the filler cap (2) and fill with oil of the recommended type (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) up to the MAX line in the sight glass.
Refit the filler cap (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Check for oil leaks. Check that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after the engine starts. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check the oil level again and top up to the MAX level line, if necessary.
Refit all parts removed.
Checking valve clearances
Proceed as described in Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the opening rocker and the opening shim to measure the clearance.
The clearances must be within the specified limits:

Opening rocker arm
Intake: | (A)
Adjusting clearance | 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance | 0.05 to 0.15 mm
Exhaust: | (A)
Adjusting clearance | 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance | 0.05 to 0.15 mm

With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the closing rocker arm and the closing shim to measure the clearance:

Closing rocker arm
Intake: | (B)
Adjusting clearance | 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance | 0 to 0.20 mm
Exhaust: | (B)
Adjusting clearance | 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance | 0 to 0.20 mm

If the clearances measured are outside the specified limits, measure the value and adjust as required (Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances).
Adjusting the valve clearances
Proceed as described in Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances.
Changing and cleaning the air filters
The air filter must be renewed at the intervals indicated in the “Routine maintenance table” (Sect. D 3).
Raise the fuel tank (Sect. L 2, Removal of the fuel tank).
Uncsrew the three screws (1) securing the filter cover (2).
Remove the filter cover (2) complete with the filter cartridge.
Remove the filter cartridge (3) from the cover (2) by unscrewing the screw (4).
The filter cartridge can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or renewed as necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not run the engine without the air filter. This will draw foreign material present in the air into the engine and may damage the engine.
Install the cartridge in the airbox cover and replace all the removed parts; tighten the screws (1) and (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.
Changing the brake fluid
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Filling the front brake circuit
Undo the screws (3) and remove the cover and membrane (1) from the front brake fluid reservoir (2).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Fill the reservoir (2) with new brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.
Loosen the bleed valve (4) to allow fluid to escape.
Warning
While filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (4) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.
Notes
Repeat this operation on each brake caliper.
Filling the rear brake circuit
Unscrew the cap (5) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (6).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (7) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (5).
Fill the reservoir (5) with new brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the brake pedal two or three times to pressurize the circuit.
Hold the pedal pressed down.
Warning
While filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (7) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.
Draining the brake circuit
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Remove the cover (1) and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) and the cover (5) from the rear brake fluid reservoir (6).
Connect a commercial brake bleeder to the front brake caliper bleed valve (4) or rear brake caliper bleed valve (7).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a brake bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the front caliper bleed valve (4) or rear caliper bleed valve (7) and immerse the other end of the tubing in a container on the floor containing old brake fluid.
Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.
Operate the brake lever (or pedal) until all the fluid has drained out.
Repeat this operation for each brake caliper.
Filling the brake system with fluid
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Fill the reservoirs (2) and (5) with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from an unopened container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times to allow the fluid to reach all points of the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleed tool to bleed valve (4) or (7).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve (4) or (7) and pump with the bleeder. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed screw (4) or (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
If you do not have a brake bleeder available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve as outlined in the draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve a 1/4 turn and operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times until fluid emerges from the bleed valve.
Pull the lever fully in and open the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 of a turn.
Wait a few seconds, then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (4) or (7).
Important
Do not release the brake lever (or pedal) until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Bleed air from the bleed valves one at a time.
Tighten the bleed valve (4) or (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace the dust cap.
Top the fluid up to the correct level and refit cover (1) to reservoir (2) and tighten screws (3) and fit cap (5) to reservoir (6).
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.
Undo the screws (3) and remove the cover and membrane (1) from the clutch fluid reservoir (2).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Fill the reservoir (2) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.
Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to escape.
Warning
During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (4) until it changes colour. Tighten the bleed valve (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.
Remove the dust cap to expose the bleed valve (4).
Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (4).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.
Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.
Undo the screws (3) and remove the cover and membrane (1) from the fluid reservoir (2).
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been expelled.
To help drain the circuit fully, unscrew the three retaining screws (5) and remove the slave cylinder cap from the engine.
Withdraw the clutch slave cylinder assembly (6).
Push in the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Refit the slave cylinder cap and tighten retaining screws (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Filling the clutch circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.
Fill the reservoir (2) with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a previously unopened container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever several times to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleed tool to the bleed valve (3).
Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve (4) and pump with the bleeding tool. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube connected to the bleed valve (4) is free of air bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) as outlined in the draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve (4) by a 1/4 turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid starts to emerge from the bleed valve (4).
Pull the lever fully in and then slacken off the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 turn.
Wait for a few seconds, then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (3).
Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Tighten bleed valve (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and fit the dust cap.
Fill up to 3 mm above the MIN level mark on the reservoir.
Replace the membrane and the cover (1) on the reservoir (2) and tighten the screws (3).
Adjusting the steering head bearings
Excessive handlebar play or the forks shaking in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering head bearings requires adjustment. Proceed as follows.
Unscrew the four screws (1), remove the two clamps (2) and remove the handlebar (3) from the steering head, positioning it out of the way so it does not hinder subsequent operations.
Slacken the clamp screws (4) securing the top yoke to both fork legs.
Loosen the clamp screw (5) that holds the steering tube to the top yoke.
Using service tool no. 88713.1058, turn the nut (6) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten all previously loosened screws to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Reposition the handlebar (3), fit the clamp (2) and tighten the four clamp screws (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Adjusting the chain tension
Tensioning the drive chain.
Turn the rear wheel slowly to find the position at which the chain is at its most taut.
With the motorcycle on its sidestand, press with a finger in the centre of the bottom run of the chain and measure the distance between the centres of chain link pins and the aluminium swingarm. The distance should be within 46 to 48 mm.
To adjust the tension, proceed as follows.
Loosen the axle nuts (1).
Turn the chain tension adjuster screws (2) on both sides of the swingarm clockwise by the same number of turns to increase tension or counterclockwise to decrease it. In the latter case, you will need to push the wheel forward.
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission components.
Check that the reference marks on both sides of the swingarm are lined up. This indicates perfect wheel alignment.
Tighten the axle nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the tension adjuster screws (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Also check that the nuts (3) securing the sprocket to the flange are tight. This can also be done with the wheel mounted, inserting a 8 mm wrench on a flexible arm from the other side to hold the pins while checking the tightness of the sprocket nuts.
In the case of renewal of the nuts (3), use threadlocker and tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Checking front brake pad wear
Look through the slot in the caliper clip (1) to make sure the groove in the brake pad friction material (2) is still visible.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows.
Remove the calipers (Sect. G 3, Removal of the front brake system).
Remove the cotter pin (3) from the pad retaining pin.
Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Withdraw the pad retaining pins (4) from the outside.
Remove the clip (1) from between the two caliper halves.
Remove the worn pads (2).
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Insert the new pads and clip (1). Slide in the pad retaining pin (4) and secure it in position with the cotter pin (3).
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is above the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is level.
Unscrew the two crosshead screws (6) and remove the reservoir cover (5).
Remove the inner membrane from the reservoir.
Top up to maximum level with the specified brake fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Refit all previously removed components.
Checking rear brake pad wear
Check through the slot between the two caliper halves that there is at least 1 mm of friction material on the pads.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Insert the new pads and clip (3). Slide in the pad retaining pin (2) and secure it in position with the circlip (1).
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the reservoir (4) is between the MIN and MAX marks. If not, unscrew the reservoir cover (4) and top up with the recommended brake fluid.
Notes
If it proves difficult to change the brake pads, first remove the caliper from the motorcycle (Sect. G 6, Removal of the rear brake system).
Warning
As the brake calipers are components of vital importance to the safety of the motorcycle, refer to the instructions in Sect. G 3, Removal of the front brake system and Sect. G 6, Removal of the rear brake system, and in particular, on reassembly, remember to tighten the caliper screws to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Adjusting the throttle and choke cables
The throttle cable should have freeplay of 2 to 4 mm (measured in terms of rotation of the twistgrip rim) in all steering positions.
If necessary, adjust the freeplay with the adjuster (1) located on the twistgrip.
For larger adjustments of the throttle cable, use the adjuster (2) located on the right-hand side of the throttle body.
Remove the cap, loosen the lock nut (3) and turn the adjuster (2) to obtain the required free travel.
Tighten the lock nut and replace the cap.
Adjust travel of the cold start control cable by turning the control lever on the handlebar to its maximum position and checking that plate (4) is located against the travel limit stop.
Check that engine speed in this condition is 2000 rpm. To adjust the rpm turn the adjuster screw (7).
Proceed in the same way to adjust the freeplay of the throttle cable, turning adjuster (5) after loosening the locknut (6).
Check the condition of the throttle and cold start outer cables at regular intervals. The plastic covering should show no signs of pinching or cracking.
Lubricate the ends of the throttle control cables with the prescribed grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel excessive resistance or stiffness, renew the cable.
To lubricate throttle cable, undo the two screws (9) and remove the upper half of the twistgrip housing (8).
Grease the end of the cable (10) and the race.
Carefully close the throttle assembly, inserting the cable (10) in the guide (A) on the upper twistgrip housing (8).
Replace and tighten the two screws (9).
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals
The position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows.
Restrain the tie-rod (1) and slacken the locknuts (2) and (3).
Notes
The locknut (2) has a left-hand thread.
Turn the tie-rod (1) using an open-ended wrench on the flats to move the gearchange pedal to the required position.
Tighten both lock nuts onto the rod.
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.
Loosen the locknut (4).
Turn the pedal travel adjustment screw (5) until the pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten the locknut (4).
Operate the pedal by hand to make sure it has 1.5 to 2 mm of free play before the brake begins to bite.
If not, adjust the length of the master cylinder pushrod as follows.
Slacken off the locknut (7) on the pushrod.
Screw the rod into the clevis (6) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the locknut (7) and recheck the pedal freeplay.
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
Adjuster (1), located on the left-hand side at the point at which the top of the shock absorber is fixed to the rear sub-frame, controls rebound damping.
Adjuster nuts (2) and (3), located at the bottom of the shock absorber, serve to adjust the preload of the outer spring.
Turn the adjuster (1) clockwise to stiffen the damping H and anti-clockwise to soften it S.
Standard setting:
first turn the adjuster (1) fully clockwise, then turn it anti-clockwise: 8 clicks.
To adjust the spring preload, unscrew the lower adjuster nut (3) using a pin wrench. Screw the lower nut (3) in or out to increase or reduce the preload.
Warning
To turn the preload adjuster nuts, use only a specific tool and take care, otherwise the wrench pins may slip off the nut. This could injure your hands. Never use a wrench with a too small pin or with a too short handle.
Important
When adjusting the spring preload, do not exceed a spring length of 181 mm to avoid damaging the swingarm.
Standard length of the preloaded spring on the shock absorber with the rear wheel raised off the ground: 150±1 mm.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with high-pressure gas and can cause injuries if inexpertly dismantled.
Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock absorber spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all times. It may also be necessary to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.